Friday, June 18, 2010
First Impressions of Arusha
If you don't feel like reading a long post, here's a quick summary:
Arusha reminds me a lot of Jamaica, minus the beach and reggae.
And now the longer version...
Even at night, you can get a feel for a place. Quite literally.
I hadn't even left JRO property when I got my first "African massage." For those of you with dirty minds, please retrieve them from the gutter. This massage comes from riding down a rough and bumpy road. A bit like a vibrating massage chair, except it's diesel-powered and doing 80kph.
Believe it or not, it actually felt good... for a few miles anyway.
A few things I noticed:
1. It's dark. I know... duh. But JRO is practically the middle of nowhere and Arusha isn't exactly awash in light either.
2. TZ is a poor country. I knew that beforehand, but even if I didn't it is obvious enough in many ways.
I saw almost as many pedestrians as vehicles on the road from JRO to Arusha... at 9pm. you do that when gas is nearly $5/gal.
Most of the stores I saw along the road were small, dimly lit and brightly painted. Windows were heavily barred, if they weren't bricked up. This is what reminded me of Jamaica.
Speaking of dimly lit, the outdoor lighting of choice is the 48" fluorescent tube. Sometimes it's two on a pole forming a Y shape, but it's just as likely to be attached to a tree. The more well-off shopkeepers had colored tubes (purple, red, green, etc). The ones with mercury vapor are really in high cotton.
3. The British influence is apparent, particularly in road signs.
4. The highway department REALLY loves speed bumps. In some places they lay them down narrow in groups of three that'll rattle your fillings.
5. The drivers here are crazy. Really.
Arusha reminds me a lot of Jamaica, minus the beach and reggae.
And now the longer version...
Even at night, you can get a feel for a place. Quite literally.
I hadn't even left JRO property when I got my first "African massage." For those of you with dirty minds, please retrieve them from the gutter. This massage comes from riding down a rough and bumpy road. A bit like a vibrating massage chair, except it's diesel-powered and doing 80kph.
Believe it or not, it actually felt good... for a few miles anyway.
A few things I noticed:
1. It's dark. I know... duh. But JRO is practically the middle of nowhere and Arusha isn't exactly awash in light either.
2. TZ is a poor country. I knew that beforehand, but even if I didn't it is obvious enough in many ways.
I saw almost as many pedestrians as vehicles on the road from JRO to Arusha... at 9pm. you do that when gas is nearly $5/gal.
Most of the stores I saw along the road were small, dimly lit and brightly painted. Windows were heavily barred, if they weren't bricked up. This is what reminded me of Jamaica.
Speaking of dimly lit, the outdoor lighting of choice is the 48" fluorescent tube. Sometimes it's two on a pole forming a Y shape, but it's just as likely to be attached to a tree. The more well-off shopkeepers had colored tubes (purple, red, green, etc). The ones with mercury vapor are really in high cotton.
3. The British influence is apparent, particularly in road signs.
4. The highway department REALLY loves speed bumps. In some places they lay them down narrow in groups of three that'll rattle your fillings.
5. The drivers here are crazy. Really.
JRO
We landed on time at JRO, which for some reason was shown on the in-flight tracker a good 100mi SE of where it actually is.
Anyway, now that I was in the back I thought it wold take some time to deplane. But one of the FAs said we could go out the back door. Sweet!
I was on the tarmac in a blink and was the third person into the termina. More importantly, I was the first person to the visa window, which is straight ahead and a bit to the left. (There are three booths for immigration, or those already with visas, to the left.) A quick stamp and $100 later I was officially in TZ.
It was also a short wait for my bags - both arrived intact and otherwise unmolested - and I was the first passenger out of the terminal. Wasn't even stopped for a bag check by customs. Waaay faster than I thought. So fast I'm sorry I didn't time it.
My thoughts/observations:
For KLM 571 at least - the very back is as good as the very front.
I imagine the yellow fever rules are still in force (must show proof of innoculation if coming from a "yellow fever endemic country"). My flight came straight from Europe, so I didn't need one. I had my yellow book in my shirt pocket - for all my other pokes - but they didn't even ask. Henry Stedman in his 3rd edtition of Kilimanjaro said it was almost compsory, noting that immigration sometimes asks, whether a passenger requires it or not. I thought his warning was a tad alarmist.
From my vantage point in baggage claim, I'd say the majority of the people deplaning at JRO got their visas in advance. I chatted with a Canadian who sat right behind me and he said he wished he hadn't gotten his in advance. (Getting it ahead of time means mailing your passport, two pictures and some documentation to a TZ embassy or consulate. For the added expense of the pictures and express postage both ways, you get a slick full-color visa printed in your passport.) So a lot of those folks paid more for a convenience that never really materialized.
He was surprised I got through so quickly since I had to buy my visa. Well, it's always fast when you're first in line. :)
Anyway, now that I was in the back I thought it wold take some time to deplane. But one of the FAs said we could go out the back door. Sweet!
I was on the tarmac in a blink and was the third person into the termina. More importantly, I was the first person to the visa window, which is straight ahead and a bit to the left. (There are three booths for immigration, or those already with visas, to the left.) A quick stamp and $100 later I was officially in TZ.
It was also a short wait for my bags - both arrived intact and otherwise unmolested - and I was the first passenger out of the terminal. Wasn't even stopped for a bag check by customs. Waaay faster than I thought. So fast I'm sorry I didn't time it.
My thoughts/observations:
For KLM 571 at least - the very back is as good as the very front.
I imagine the yellow fever rules are still in force (must show proof of innoculation if coming from a "yellow fever endemic country"). My flight came straight from Europe, so I didn't need one. I had my yellow book in my shirt pocket - for all my other pokes - but they didn't even ask. Henry Stedman in his 3rd edtition of Kilimanjaro said it was almost compsory, noting that immigration sometimes asks, whether a passenger requires it or not. I thought his warning was a tad alarmist.
From my vantage point in baggage claim, I'd say the majority of the people deplaning at JRO got their visas in advance. I chatted with a Canadian who sat right behind me and he said he wished he hadn't gotten his in advance. (Getting it ahead of time means mailing your passport, two pictures and some documentation to a TZ embassy or consulate. For the added expense of the pictures and express postage both ways, you get a slick full-color visa printed in your passport.) So a lot of those folks paid more for a convenience that never really materialized.
He was surprised I got through so quickly since I had to buy my visa. Well, it's always fast when you're first in line. :)
Well, I'm here!
Lots to catch up on, but I finally have as comfy chair and decent internet service.
Flying over
Generally uneventful. Flight to DTW was a half-hour late but more than enough for my connections. The headDL flight attendant - who was told by another pax that some of us (not me!) might be a bit surly - kept the jokes coming. After asking us to turn off "anything battery-powered that's not keeping you alive," she told us the pilot was a former Blue Angel and that "he'll fly it like he stole it."
Upon landing she said if we liked the flight, they are a Delta crew out of Orlando. If we didn't, then they are an Eastern crew out of Seattle. On the way out, I grinned at the attendant and said "Eastern out of Seattle, right?"
That got me a "Hey now!" and a playful slap on the arm.
DTW-AMS was likewise uneventful. No one was sitting next to me so I had some space. Ambien was much appreciated on this leg.
AMS-JRO was also nice, but not sleeping (intentionally) made this flight seem quite a bit longer than it was. I paid extra for a Premium Economy seat, which is still cattle class but with a bit more seat pitch and recline. I was wedged between a nun and a teenage British girl. It wasn't terribly comfy for any of us. 3-4-3 layouts seldom are. The gal said there were plenty of open seats in the back. I took a look and sure enough, there were probably 30-40 empty seats in the back section, enough room for several to actually lie down. I plunked myself down in 61D (next to last row). While it lacked the recline of the PE seat, I had a lot more room. I was right by the galley so easy access to mid-meal snacks and - surprisingly enough - got served first.
There was aside from what I'd call moderate turbulence as we approached the Swiss Alps. You know it's not good when the captain tells the cabin crew to sit down and buckle up.
Sidebar: We flew over the Sahara and it's as tan and desolate as you think it is.
I thought it would take forever to get off the plane from the back, but they wheeled up a second set of stairs to the rear. More in the next post...
Delta Sky Club
If you're going to do a fair amount of flying in a short amount of time - and happen to be on DL or one of the SkyTeam airlines - it's well worth your while to spring for a 30-day club membership. It's $90 and well worth it. The DCA and DTW clubs are nice, comfortable and quiet. Only one club at DCA so it can get crowded. DTW has four of them. I went to the one at the center of Terminal A. Very spacious with plenty of seats, showers, and a self-service bar.
Membership also gets you into some partner airline lounges, which for me includes KLM's Royal Crown Lounge 52 at AMS. It was a wee bit of a rush, but I managed to get a shower, a shave and a reasonable breakfast in a 1.5hr layover. It was a little busy when I got there, but was pretty quiet by 10am.
KLM Premium Economy seats
Long story short: If you're thinking about this upgrade, check to see how booked the flight is first. If I had known this flight had so many empty seats, I would've saved myself the $150 and sat in the back.
Flying over
Generally uneventful. Flight to DTW was a half-hour late but more than enough for my connections. The headDL flight attendant - who was told by another pax that some of us (not me!) might be a bit surly - kept the jokes coming. After asking us to turn off "anything battery-powered that's not keeping you alive," she told us the pilot was a former Blue Angel and that "he'll fly it like he stole it."
Upon landing she said if we liked the flight, they are a Delta crew out of Orlando. If we didn't, then they are an Eastern crew out of Seattle. On the way out, I grinned at the attendant and said "Eastern out of Seattle, right?"
That got me a "Hey now!" and a playful slap on the arm.
DTW-AMS was likewise uneventful. No one was sitting next to me so I had some space. Ambien was much appreciated on this leg.
AMS-JRO was also nice, but not sleeping (intentionally) made this flight seem quite a bit longer than it was. I paid extra for a Premium Economy seat, which is still cattle class but with a bit more seat pitch and recline. I was wedged between a nun and a teenage British girl. It wasn't terribly comfy for any of us. 3-4-3 layouts seldom are. The gal said there were plenty of open seats in the back. I took a look and sure enough, there were probably 30-40 empty seats in the back section, enough room for several to actually lie down. I plunked myself down in 61D (next to last row). While it lacked the recline of the PE seat, I had a lot more room. I was right by the galley so easy access to mid-meal snacks and - surprisingly enough - got served first.
There was aside from what I'd call moderate turbulence as we approached the Swiss Alps. You know it's not good when the captain tells the cabin crew to sit down and buckle up.
Sidebar: We flew over the Sahara and it's as tan and desolate as you think it is.
I thought it would take forever to get off the plane from the back, but they wheeled up a second set of stairs to the rear. More in the next post...
Delta Sky Club
If you're going to do a fair amount of flying in a short amount of time - and happen to be on DL or one of the SkyTeam airlines - it's well worth your while to spring for a 30-day club membership. It's $90 and well worth it. The DCA and DTW clubs are nice, comfortable and quiet. Only one club at DCA so it can get crowded. DTW has four of them. I went to the one at the center of Terminal A. Very spacious with plenty of seats, showers, and a self-service bar.
Membership also gets you into some partner airline lounges, which for me includes KLM's Royal Crown Lounge 52 at AMS. It was a wee bit of a rush, but I managed to get a shower, a shave and a reasonable breakfast in a 1.5hr layover. It was a little busy when I got there, but was pretty quiet by 10am.
KLM Premium Economy seats
Long story short: If you're thinking about this upgrade, check to see how booked the flight is first. If I had known this flight had so many empty seats, I would've saved myself the $150 and sat in the back.
Wednesday, June 16, 2010
Weighty Concerns
I finished packing and weighed everything. I prefer to travel light, but it's hard to do "light" on Kili. Even harder when you have to drag your Kili gear for a week after the climb.
I was up til 1:00am weighing and figuring things. What will stay at the hotel and what will go up the mountain. What will be given away or consumed. What has to stay with me at all times. What I can really leave out.
My two duffels weigh 27lbs and 24lbs. Yeah that's a lot. But that includes 6-7lbs of stuff I'm taking over to donate to a school: markers, chalk, pens and - since it's World Cup season - a youth-size soccer ball with an air pump. I took out a fleece, a vest and an extra t-shirt. Only 2lbs or so, but that's progress!
My daypack, which I'm carrying on, is around 18lbs. This includes most of my camera gear and my netbook.
My mountain weight is probably OK. The guide will shake out my gear the day before, so if I need to shed stuff he will definitely let me know. I have a personal porter who can carry my daypack for me, but I'll probably have him carry my tripod (9lbs, with a not-very-light panoramic head) most of the time. If the pack gets to be too much, he gets the pack and I'll get the tripod.
Oh yeah, there's also a 33lb baggage limit on internal flights. I will have shed some weight by then (the donated stuff, snacks, gifts) but I'm going to be over that limit by a weighs. (ha!)
Carol from Kiliwarriors says there's no scale at the bush airstrip and it's pretty much an honor system. It's also ultimately up to the pilot whether to take excess baggage in the first place. She said previous clients have been over the limit by a little bit and it hasn't been a problem. I will find out firsthand just how strict that rule is.
I was up til 1:00am weighing and figuring things. What will stay at the hotel and what will go up the mountain. What will be given away or consumed. What has to stay with me at all times. What I can really leave out.
My two duffels weigh 27lbs and 24lbs. Yeah that's a lot. But that includes 6-7lbs of stuff I'm taking over to donate to a school: markers, chalk, pens and - since it's World Cup season - a youth-size soccer ball with an air pump. I took out a fleece, a vest and an extra t-shirt. Only 2lbs or so, but that's progress!
My daypack, which I'm carrying on, is around 18lbs. This includes most of my camera gear and my netbook.
My mountain weight is probably OK. The guide will shake out my gear the day before, so if I need to shed stuff he will definitely let me know. I have a personal porter who can carry my daypack for me, but I'll probably have him carry my tripod (9lbs, with a not-very-light panoramic head) most of the time. If the pack gets to be too much, he gets the pack and I'll get the tripod.
Oh yeah, there's also a 33lb baggage limit on internal flights. I will have shed some weight by then (the donated stuff, snacks, gifts) but I'm going to be over that limit by a weighs. (ha!)
Carol from Kiliwarriors says there's no scale at the bush airstrip and it's pretty much an honor system. It's also ultimately up to the pilot whether to take excess baggage in the first place. She said previous clients have been over the limit by a little bit and it hasn't been a problem. I will find out firsthand just how strict that rule is.
Sunday, June 13, 2010
The Little Things
As departure gets closer, the things I have to deal with get smaller. Airfare, clothing, insurance and luggage were taken care of months ago. Doctor visits and shots were not too long ago. But the last two weeks have been chasing down the little things, like small bottles to keep pills in, a moneybelt, SD cards, permethrin to treat my safari clothes. And there are chores, like eating up the food that won't keep while I'm gone, paying bills and holding the mail.
For instance, this afternoon was spent cashing in my change jar ($93!), buying some brightly colored cable ties (for securing bag zippers), dropping off a tote for my CSA sharesitter (and getting some intel on Delta's Sky Club locations - thanks Jodi!), buy some of the aforementioned pill bottles, and waterproofing my boots.
The boots (a solid pair of old-school all-leather wafflestompers made by Alico) feel pretty well broken in. I filled the large seam around the sole with a thin liquid wax. It seemed like the best way to fill the stitch holes. Then a generous helping of Sno-Seal, which I think is the end-all be-all of waterproofing products. It's a lot easier to apply if you have a hairdryer to melt the beeswax. And I bought a hairdryer expressly for this reason. Not enough hair to need it for its intended purpose.
I still have to permethrin-ize my safari clothes, find some Gatorade powder, count my vitamins, charge and recharge all my toys, buy a circular polarizer for my new lens, get a haircut, put Picasa on my netbook... I'll need a vacation just to recover from preparing for this vacation.
For instance, this afternoon was spent cashing in my change jar ($93!), buying some brightly colored cable ties (for securing bag zippers), dropping off a tote for my CSA sharesitter (and getting some intel on Delta's Sky Club locations - thanks Jodi!), buy some of the aforementioned pill bottles, and waterproofing my boots.
The boots (a solid pair of old-school all-leather wafflestompers made by Alico) feel pretty well broken in. I filled the large seam around the sole with a thin liquid wax. It seemed like the best way to fill the stitch holes. Then a generous helping of Sno-Seal, which I think is the end-all be-all of waterproofing products. It's a lot easier to apply if you have a hairdryer to melt the beeswax. And I bought a hairdryer expressly for this reason. Not enough hair to need it for its intended purpose.
I still have to permethrin-ize my safari clothes, find some Gatorade powder, count my vitamins, charge and recharge all my toys, buy a circular polarizer for my new lens, get a haircut, put Picasa on my netbook... I'll need a vacation just to recover from preparing for this vacation.
The "Hidden" Medical Costs of Kili
It didn't dawn on me until fairly recently that the medical costs of getting ready for Kili are substantial. It pales compared to the trek cost, the safari and even the cheapo coach airfare, nevertheless it was more than I expected. Especially when you have a high-deductible health plan.
The shots aren't necessarily cheap. Twinrix will probably run $300-400 by the time I'm done with it. Meningitis was $130. (And I still have a bruise from that one.) Oral typhoid was $90 (or $22.50/dose). If I had gotten it, yellow fever would've been $180. H1N1 flu was a bargain at $15.
The pills can be pricey too - and on my insurance I'm paying for these out of pocket. Cipro (ciprofloxacin), Diamox (acetazolamide) and Ambien (zolpidem) are available as generics (yaay!) and the most expensive of those was just over $30. Target practically gives away Cipro (just $4 for 18 pills). As for Malarone (atovaquone/proguanil) ... no generics there. $193.07 - and that's the one that doesn't make you crazy. At that price I'd take it even if I didn't really need to. Funny how the one I really hope I don't use is the cheapest.
So my travel-related preventative medical care will cost around $1000. Insurance is picking up a lot of it, since the shots are much cheaper than the disease. Nevertheless, international travel can cost more than you think.
The shots aren't necessarily cheap. Twinrix will probably run $300-400 by the time I'm done with it. Meningitis was $130. (And I still have a bruise from that one.) Oral typhoid was $90 (or $22.50/dose). If I had gotten it, yellow fever would've been $180. H1N1 flu was a bargain at $15.
The pills can be pricey too - and on my insurance I'm paying for these out of pocket. Cipro (ciprofloxacin), Diamox (acetazolamide) and Ambien (zolpidem) are available as generics (yaay!) and the most expensive of those was just over $30. Target practically gives away Cipro (just $4 for 18 pills). As for Malarone (atovaquone/proguanil) ... no generics there. $193.07 - and that's the one that doesn't make you crazy. At that price I'd take it even if I didn't really need to. Funny how the one I really hope I don't use is the cheapest.
So my travel-related preventative medical care will cost around $1000. Insurance is picking up a lot of it, since the shots are much cheaper than the disease. Nevertheless, international travel can cost more than you think.
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